Alright, my loves, this is going to be a loooong post! There is a lot of material to cover for this pattern, so brace yourselves!There will be none of that “let me tell you a story” bs going on in this post. Please read it carefully, as it is loaded with notes to help you complete your project.
Let’s start with the yarn. For my friends that are unable to get their lovely hands on a skein of Comfy Cotton Yarn, here are the specs straight from the Lion Brand page:
|Yarn Weight||3 Light|
|Crochet Gauge (4″ x 4″)||13 sc x 16 r on J-10 (6mm)|
|Knit Gauge (4″ x 4″)||20 sts x 20 r on # 7 (4.5mm)|
|Fiber Detail||50% cotton, 50% polyester|
|Care||Machine Wash, Machine Dry|
You can use ANY yarn you want. In fact, I crocheted this pattern using a size 1 fingering yarn and the romper looked amazing! Chose whatever yarn suits your fancy, and just use the measurements in the sizing section below to work the pattern.
With that said, let’s move onto hooks. You will need a Tunisian crochet hook. No getting around that, sorry. We’ll be crocheting a length of at least 17 inches, so you will need that extra space provided by the Tunisian hook.
These are the Tunisian Hooks I use.
If you use a medium 3 or 4 yarn, use a 4 mm Tunisian hook and aluminum hook. If you use a fingering yarn, use 3 mm hooks.
You can experiment with other sized hooks, but 3 mm and 4 mm worked best for me.
Sizing: There are no multiples for this pattern, nor do you need to begin with X number of stitches. You just need to measure out the lengths you need for the romper size you are crocheting.
Yarn: 1 Skein Comfy Cotton, by Lion Brand Yarn
Hook: 4 mm
3.75 mm standard hook (optional)
Additional materials: 4-5 Buttons or snaps (anything you want to use to fasten the suspenders and diaper cover), scissors, measuring tape, and needle (any needle you can fit your yarn through will work). Also, Stitch Markers.
To cast on, insert your hook into the second chain from the hook. Yarn over, and pull the hook out of the stitch. You should now have 2 loops on your hook. Keep them on the hook! We’ll be adding loops onto the hook with every stitch, so you’ll end up with the same number of loops on your hook as you have stitches on your chain.
For the next stitch, insert your hook into the following stitch and yarn over, pull the hook out of the stitch. You’ll now have 3 loops on your hook. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and pull the hook out of the stitch. You’ll now have four loops on your hook. Continue adding loops to your hook until you have cast on one loop for every stitch of your chain.
Once you have pulled up a loop on your hook for every stitch of the row, crochet a RR.
Tunisian Row 1: Once you’ve completed your RR, you should have only one loop left on your hook. If you look at your work, you will notice vertical lines in every stitch. We’ll be crocheting into these vertical lines. Note that you will only crochet behind the front vertical line, and not through both. So if you insert your hook, and it comes out through the back of your work, you have gone too far.
Insert your hook behind the second vertical stitch on the row (it’s the one on the needle in the picture above). Crochet a Simple Tunisian Stitch (STS): Yarn over, pull your hook out of the stitch and keep the loop on your hook. In the next vertical stitch, crochet a Tunisian Purl Stitch (TPS): Reverse yarn over (pull the yarn in front of your hook instead of behind like you do in a traditional yarn over), put your index finger on the yarn you just yarned-over to hold it in place while you insert your hook into the stitch. Lift your index finger and release the yarn, pull it under the hook. Yarn over and pull the hook out of the stitch. Keep the loop on your hook. STS into the next stitch. TPS into the next. Continue the row by alternating between STS and TPS until you have one loop on your hook for every stitch of your row.
Row 2: RR
Row 3: TPS into the second vertical stitch of the row. STS into the third stitch. TPS into the fourth, and STS into the fifth. Continue alternating stitches until you have one loop on your hook for every stitch of your row.
Row 4: RR
Row 5: STS into the second vertical stitch of the row. TPS into the third stitch. STS into the fourth, and TPS into the fifth. Continue alternating stitches until you have one loop on your hook for every stitch of your row.
Row 6: RR
Repeat rows 3 through 6 until you crochet the Center to Crotch measurement for the romper size you need.
Fold your work in half (joining the short sides together), and place a stitch marker in the center stitch fold on your working side (the side you have your crochet hook on).
The front diaper cover will be the half your crochet hook is on. Crochet a Tunisian Row until you reach the stitch marker.
Decrease RR: Place a stitch marker between the 4th and 5th vertical stitch at the end of the return row to mark where you will decrease at the end of the row. Yarn over, and pull through two loops, then yarn over and pull through three loops. Work a regular RR in the remaining stitches (y/o, pull through 2), until you reach your stitch marker. At the stitch marker, yarn over, pull through three. Then yarn over, and pull through the remaining three loops.
Tunisian Decrease: Look at your fifth stitch from your hook and determine whether you will need to crochet a TPs or an STS on that fifth stitch. You will be crocheting that same stitch into the first stitch of your row. So if your fifth stitch is a STS, you will begin your row with a STS, and vice-versa. For the decrease rows, the first vertical stitch of the row will count as your first stitch of the row.
Crochet your first two vertical stitches together in the same stitch as your fifth stitch. Then crochet the next two stitches together in the opposite stitch to your previous stitch. This should bring your to the fifth stitch, at this point continue to crochet a honeycomb Tunisian row until you reach the last three vertical stitches of the row.
Crochet the first two (of the last three vertical stitches) together using whatever stitch you require to complete your honeycomb pattern, then crochet the last vertical stitch and the last stitch of the row together.
Repeat the Decrease RR and Decrease Tunisian rows until the top part of your work decreases enough to meet the Leg Opening measurement.
For example, my 6-9 month romper would measure 3.25 inches.
Once you reach the length you want, you’ll need to cast-off.
Cast-off: Finish your last RR until you have one loop left on your hook.
Insert your hook into the second vertical stitch of the row. Yarn over, and pull your hook out of the stitch. Slip stitch (pull your loop closest to the tip of your hook through the loop closest to your hand). You should have only one loop on your hook now. Insert your hook into the next vertical stitch and make a slip stitch. Continue making slip stitches in every stitch of the row.
SC Row: Chain 1, then turn your work around. Beginning in the first stitch of the row, SC into every stitch. Repeat 3 times.
Cut a long length of yarn, and use this to sew the SC rows down onto the inside of the diaper cover. You’ll need to fold the SC work over itself and onto the inside of the honeycomb work in order to create a thicker edge on which to attach snaps onto the diaper cover to close it. Sew it down.
Repeat all of the Diaper Cover steps on the other half of your romper so that you end up with two flaps for the diaper cover. Then add snaps, buttons, or anything you want to use to fasten the diaper cover closed.
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Turn the romper so that the back side faces you, then take three stitch markers and place one halfway on the top side of the romper (to divide the romper into front and back sides). Then place the other two stitch markers 1.5 to 2 inches from the edges on the side you want the suspenders to be.
Suspender Block: Measure the length of the diaper cover. This will be the same measurement as the suspenders block length. Turn your work to face the top, front side of the romper. In the first stitch of the row, chain 1, then SC into every stitch around the entire top part of the romper.
Row 2: CH 1, turn your work around, then SC into every stitch of the row until you reach the last stitch marker.
Row 3: CH 1, then SC into every stitch until you reach the next stitch marker.
Repeat Row 3 until you crochet the length you measured at the beginning of this section.
Take two stitch markers and place them 1 inch from the edge at either side of the suspenders block.
Suspender: Chain 1, and SC into every stitch until you reach the stitch marker. Then chain 1, turn your work around and SC into every stitch to the edge. CH 1, turn your work around, then SC into every stitch until you reach the stitch marker. Repeat until you crochet about 10 inches of suspender. Then measure it:
Fold your suspender over the romper (like you would if a baby were to wear the romper). Take your measuring tape, and measure the suspender from the shoulder to the bottom of the diaper cover. You will need to crochet the suspender long enough so that when you fasten it, it meets the Shoulder to Crotch measurement of the sizing chart. Adjust the length of your suspender as needed, in order to reach the Shoulder to Crotch measurement. Measure the suspender itself, beginning from the block, then crochet the second suspender in the same length.
Sewing the Romper
Line up the edges of your romper along the side. Sew along the edges to close the romper.
Unfasten the diaper cover so that it is open. Crochet three rows of SCs along the edge of the leg opening beginning from the front of the diaper cover to the back. Repeat on the other side.
Disclosures & Copyright
The photos and content on this pattern belong to Mode Bespoke, unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved.
If you are selling your work from my patterns, please credit Mode Bespoke for the pattern and provide the link to this pattern on your work. You may not use my written work, photos, or any other content posted on my blog, YouTube, Instagram, or other sites as your own or display them for public use. Please do not distribute purchased patterns, they are intended for personal use.
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