Mode Bespoke

Hooray for sock patterns! Here’s another simple sock pattern using one of our cool stitches from the Tunisian Sampler Afghan (the Chains stitch).

This one is designed for folks who do not have a double-sided hook, but still want to crochet some unique TC socks.

The ad-free, PDF pattern is available below, with sock kits coming soon! They will include everything you need: printed pattern, hook, yarn, measuring tape, scissors, needle, and stitch markers!

For those of you using just the tutorial, here are some pattern notes:

Yarn: #3 / DK / Lightweight

Tunisian Hook: 3.5 or 3.75 mm

Additional materials: yarn needle, measuring tape & scissors. Stitch markers (optional) 

Pattern Notes            

Yarn: You can use any yarn, in any weight you want to crochet this project. If you choose a different yarn weight than what I listed above, check the label and use the hook size recommended by the yarn maker. 

Construction: These socks are made up of 4 parts; Foot, Toes, Heel, and Cuff.

You’ll start with the body of the sock, and your initial chain will need to measure your foot length (more on measurements in the next page). Each row will add to the length of the fabric (which will actually be your foot circumference). Once completed, sew the narrow ends of the fabric together to create a snug tube for your foot, and proceed to the toes and heel section. 

The toes are worked in a series of decreases and increases to create an hourglass shape (as seen in the photo on the right), which you will sew those together and move on to the heel, which is crocheted the same as the toes section. 

The cuff is crocheted last, and is crocheted in the round, along the top edge of the sock. 

Measurements:

You’ll need to take the following two measurements to complete this pattern: 

1. Foot Circumference
2. Foot Length

Yarn info: I used about 50 g or each color, in a lightweight yarn. So approximately 115 m, or, 125 yds of each color for pair of adult socks. Admittedly, I have tiny feet and wear a size 5.5 women’s in US sizing, so maybe get an extra skein of lavender (or whatever your main color is) if you are making larger socks.

Abbreviations:CH – Chain                                        SC – Single Crochet                                     CO – Cast On                                    SL – Slip StitchKS –  Knit Stitch                               RP – Return PassBTS – Back Leg Tunisian Simple Stitch  FTS – Front Leg Tunisian Simple Stitch

CO: Insert your hook into the chain space between the vertical stitches, yarn over and pull up a loop. Leave the loop on your hook. 

SC: Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. When you have 2 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through both loops. 

SL: Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. When you have two loops on your hook, pull the top loop (the one closest to your hook), through the next loop. 

BTS: Insert your hook behind the back leg of the vertical stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Leave the loop on your hook.

FTS: Insert your hook behind the front leg of the vertical stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Leave the loop on your hook.

KS:  Insert your hook in between the front and back legs of the vertical stitch. Yarn over, and pull up a loop. 

RP:  Yarn over and pull through one loop (YP1), then yarn over and pull through 2 loops (YP2) with the remaining loops on your hook until you are left with 1 loop. 

Pattern: Foot                                                                                                                                                                                  

Note: Make sure to jot down your stitch and row counts for each section so you can use them to make the second sock. 

Initial Chain: Chain as many stitches as you need in order to complete a chain length equal to your foot length. 

Foundation:  Insert your hook into the second stitch of the chain, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Leave this loop on your hook (you should have two loops on your hook at this point). Insert your hook into the next chain, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat until you have cast on one loop for every stitch of the chain. 

Complete a RP.

Row 1: BTS into the second vertical stitch from your hook. FTS into the third stitch, BTS into the fourth. Repeat alternating between FTS and BTS until you complete the row. Complete the row in whichever stitch (FTS or BTS) you end up on, then CO into the final stitch. 

(See stitch diagram on the next page.*)

Complete a RP.

*The number of stitches on the hook in the diagram do not correspond to the number of stitches for your socks, this is just a sample to illustrate the BTS and FTS pattern.

Repeat Row 1  until your fabric length reaches your foot circumference measurement.

Bind off: BTS into the second vertical stitch of the row. When you have two loops on your hook, close the stitch as a SC (yarn over and pull through both loops). FTS into the next stitch, then close as a SC. 

Alternate between BTS/SC, and FTS/SC until you complete the row. SL to create a knot at the end of the fabric, then cut a long tail of yarn (about 5 inches, or 13 cm). 

Sewing: Line the two narrow edges of the fabric together, and sew them together (using the long tail of yarn you left) to create a tube. 

Fold your sock, as seen in the photo on the right, and place two stitch markers along the sides to divide the fabric into two parts; top of the sock, and the bottom. Take the row count (of the Row 1 and 2 repeats you just completed), and add your bind off and foundation row, then divide that number in half. Each half of your fabric should have approximately that number of stitches. 

Pattern: Toes and Heel                                                                                                                                                                    .

Insert your hook into one of the two stitches with a stitch marker, CO a Foundation Row (like you did in the previous section), and end the row at the second stitch marker. 

Count the number of loops on your hook after you cast on the foundation row! 

Row 1: KS into every stitch. 

Complete a RP. 

Row 2: KS2Tog*, then KS into the remaining stitches of the row, until you reach the final two vertical stitches. KS2Tog into the last two stitches, then CO into the final stitch of the row. 

Compete a RP. 

*TS into the second vertical stitch from your hook, and without pulling a loop onto your hook, immediately KS into the third vertical stitch of the row. Yarn over and pull through both stitches to cast on one loop (you should have 2 loops on your hook; initial loop + the one you just cast on). 

Repeat Rows 1 and 2, until the number of loops you cast onto the hook is half of the stitches you originally cast on in the foundation row. 

Ex: You cast on 24 loops in the foundation row, begin your Row 1 and 2 repeats and stop adding rows to your work when your fabric has decreased enough that you have cast on 12 loops as the total width of the row. This section will look like a trapezoid when you are finished. You’ll then add a series of increases to create the hourglass shape like the one on the photo to the right. 

Increases

Row 1: Yarn over and pull up a loop (so that you have two loops on your hook). Then KS into the second vertical stitch from your hook, and into every vertical  stitch of the row. In the final stitch, TS into the inside leg of the stitch, then CO into the stitch as you normally would at the end of a row. 

Complete a RP.

Row 2: KS into every stitch. 

Complete a RP.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you cast on the same number of loops onto your hook, as you cast on during your foundation row.

Bind off: KS/SC, SL at the end of the row. 

Sew along the three open edges of the toe to close this section and make a comfy spot for your toes to hang out. 

Repeat this section on the other end of the foot to create the heel.  Sew only along the side of the heel to close, but leave the top part open (you know, so you can actually put your foot into the sock.) 

Pattern: Cuff                                                                                                                                                                                      .

SC into one of the side stitches along the seam where the heel meets the foot of the sock.

In the second stitch HDC into the inside leg of the stitch, then HDC into the outside leg of the stitch on the third stitch. Alternate between crocheting a HDC into the outside and inside leg of the stitch until you complete the round. 

Repeat the alternating HDC stitches until you complete between 5-7 rounds (depending on how wide you want the cuff to be).

On the last stitch of the cuff, SL and CH to knot the end. 

Weave in any remaining tails and you are finished! 😀

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For questions or comments on this pattern, please contact Atenas at: atenas@modebespoke.com

Disclosures & Copyright

The photos and content on this pattern belong to Mode Bespoke, unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved.

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