We made another thing! Woo!!
I’m always excited when I complete a project, and this no was no different. Especially since I ran out of yarn and had to wait another week to finish it.
As always, you can purchase the full PDF pattern and support my work, or simply watch the tutorial a bunch of times (which also supports the creation of additional patterns and tutorials). In either case, thank you for being here and for checking out my designs.
Alright, shameless promotion time is over, so let’s get on to the pattern notes: Remember that these are just the pattern notes. You’ll need to purchase the PDF for the full written pattern.
To find the tutorial for this pattern, type this into the search bar on YouTube:
Boat Neck Top, Mode Bespoke
Yarn: I used approximately 8 skeins of Cotton to the Core, by KnitPal to make this adult small-medium top.
Color: Tin Grey.
142 yards/50 g (per skein)
Note: You can substitute any yarn of choice for this project. If you choose a different yarn weight, check the label and use a hook twice the recommended size to crochet a lace-like fabric.
Construction: You’ll crochet 4 parts that are sewn together to form the top: Front Panel, Back Panel, 2 Sleeves. You can add optional trim along the neckline, base, and cuffs of your garment.
Swatch: Before beginning your garment, make a swatch of the stitch. This stitch compresses, or “shrinks” from the original chain length, so you will need to account for that when creating your panels and sleeves. Chain a length of 4 in / 10 cm in even multiples, and measure. Crochet rows 1-5 of the stitch with a repeat for a total of 10 rows, then measure the width of the fabric. The difference between the chain and fabric measurement will be your shrink rate, which will need to be added to the shoulder, chest/bust, and arm circumference measurements.
Shoulder Width: Measure across from the width of your shoulders.
Length: You will need two length measurements: front and back length.
Back length: Measure from the highest point of your shoulder to your hips, or to where you want the bottom of the garment to end.
Front length: Measure from the highest part of your shoulder to where you want the garment to end, making sure to account for the curves along the front of your body (bust, baby bump, etc).
Bust/Chest: Measure across the widest part of the chest (across, not around).
Arm: Measure around the widest part of your arm.
Cuff: Measure around the widest part of your hand.
Note: The stitch for this garment does not stretch horizontally, so you will need to measure the widest part of your hand to ensure you can slip it into the finished sleeve.
Measurement Adjustments: We’re not one-size-fits-all, so work with your body shape to create a garment that fits you, and make adjustments to the measurements where you need them.
For example, if you are pregnant, instead of the bust measurement, measure the widest part of your baby bump and use that width for your front panel. Just, remember to measure across, and not around your body (as you will be creating separate back and front panels for this garment).
Multiples: Even stitches.
Blocking: This is totally optional, but highly recommended in order to even out any wonky sides on the garment and to create a cleaner look. That said, I’m super lazy when it comes to blocking, and did not do it myself (hence why the edges along the sides of my garment are not as “clean” as they would have been had I blocked before sewing).