Happy Thursday, everyone! Today’s pattern is all about Tunisian Cables! (They are really more like chains, but cables just sounds nicer).

Let’s talk about this pattern for one quick second. This is a great pattern for intermediate crocheters looking to grow their TC skills. You will need to be super comfortable working purl, knit, and Tunisian Simple stitches in order to complete this pattern. It’s not that you can’t make this blanket as a beginner, you may just get a little frustrated is all.

Yarn: Use your favorite #4, medium, worsted, aran, or whatever you call this weight of yarn. Plus, you can use as many, or as few colors as you want!

Hook: You will need a Tunisian Hook. If you are making the baby blanket version of this (which is what the stitch count in the written pattern makes), then you can use a 16 in hook. Larger blankets/throws will require a Tunisian Afghan hook. Need a hook? Check out the link to the Knit Pal Tunisian hooks below!

That about covers it! Don’t forget to purchase the PDF version of this pattern! It includes loads of photos and notes, as well as resizing instructions, tips, and stitch descriptions (for the abbreviated stitches). Plus, your purchase helps support my small business (because Mode Bespoke is a one-woman show).

OK, let’s crochet!

Yarn: Medium/Worsted/Aran yarn in as many colors as you want. Please see Pattern Notes for yarn spec and quantities.

Hook: 6 mm Tunisian Hook

Additional materials: scissors and a yarn needle. 

Sizing: The stitch counts for this pattern make 1 baby blanket that measures approximately 25 inches across (63.5 cm) by 23 inches tall (58.4 cm). 
Please see Pattern Notes in the PDF pattern for resizing information. 
Abbreviations
RP – Return Pass              TS – Tunisian Simple Stitch       
PS – Purl Stitch                 KS – Knit Stitch                         

Chain 120, in Teal. 

Foundation Row: Beginning on the second chain from your hook, cast on a loop for every stitch of your chain. You should end up with 120 loops on your hook. 

Complete a RP. 

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Row 1: Beginning on the second vertical stitch from your hook, PS into the first 5 stitches of the row. KS into the next 12 stitches. PS into the next 6 stitches. 

For the remaining stitches of the row, crochet the following sequence until you are left with 5 stitches at the very end of the row: PS into 6 stitches, KS into 12 stitches, PS into 6 stitches. 

PS into each of the remaining stitches of the row, then cast on a loop in the final stitch of the row. 

 
Complete a RP. 

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Row 2: This row is a repetition of Row 1. So complete the PS 5, KS 12, PS 6 sequence, then continue the row by repeating the PS 6, KS 12, PS 6 sequence until you are left with 5 stitches. PS into each of the 5 remaining stitches, then cast on one loop in the final stitch. 

Complete a RP. 

Row 3: PS into the first 5 stitches, complete a cable: KS into the next 6 stitches.

Slowly pull the 6 loops off of your hook, so that they retain their loops shape. 

Skip the first 3 loops, and place your hook in front of them (the loops should be visible behind your hook). Pull the last 3 loops onto your hook. 

Pinch the skipped loops, pull them to the front of your hook and slip them onto the hook one at a time. 

KS into the next 6 stitches. Then slowly pull all 6 loops off of your hook so that they retain the loops shape.

Skip the first 3 loops, and place your hook behind them (the loops should be visible in front of your hook). Slip the last 3 loops onto your hook. 

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Pinch the skipped loops, pull them to the front of your hook and slip them onto the hook one at a time. 

PS into the next 6 stitches. Your cable should look like this once you’ve completed the purl stitches. 

For the remaining stitches of the row, crochet the following sequence until you are left with 5 stitches:

PS 6, cable, PS 6. 

PS into the remaining 5 stitches of the row, then cast on one into the final stitch. 

Complete a RP. 

For the rest of the color block, repeat rows 1 through 3 until you have completed a total of 31 rows, then switch your yarn color to Aqua. 

Note: When you repeat Row 1 and reach the first cable, you will notice that the cable stitches have clumped together and may be a little difficult to see. In order to KS into the cable stitches, you will need to crochet into the vertical stitch closest to your hook first. Meaning that: 

In the first group of 6 KS, you will crochet into the front 3 stitches. 

Then you crochet into the remaining 3 stitches in the back.

When you reach the second set f 6 KS stitches, you will crochet the back stitches first (they tilt to the right), then crochet into the front stitches (they tilt to the left). 

Repeat this with every cable of the row. Please refer to the video tutorial for this pattern to watch a step-by-step explanation of this section. You can find the tutorial here:

To switch yarn color: Leave 2 loops on your hook when you complete the RP for Row 31. 

Leaving a long tail of yarn, make a loop with the new yarn color and loop it over your hook. Pull your new loop through the two loops on your hook (So pull the grey loop through the two Aqua loops). 

Pick up on the pattern where you left off. Complete 31 rows in your new color, then switch color again and complete the remaining 31 rows. 

Bind-off                                                                                                                                    .

Before starting the Bind-off row, make sure you complete a repetition of Row 1. This will help create the wavy “border” along the top of the blanket. 

If you end up on a Row 2 or 3 repeat, either complete additional rows until you reach a Row 1 repeat , or pull out stitches until you reach the end of a Row 1 repeat. 

TS into the second vertical stitch of the row. When you have two loops on your hook, slip stitch by pulling the first loop through the second loop. You’ll be left with one loop on your hook. 

TS slip stitch into every vertical stitch, and into the final stitch of the row. CH 1.

Cut a long tail of yarn, weave in all of your ends.


For questions or comments on this pattern, please contact Atenas at: atenas@modebespoke.com

Disclosures & Copyright

The photos and content on this pattern belong to Mode Bespoke, unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved.

If you are selling your work from my patterns, please credit Mode Bespoke for the pattern and provide a link to this pattern on your work. You may not use my written work, photos, or any other content posted on my blog, YouTube, Instagram, or other sites as your own or display them for public use. Please do not distribute purchased patterns, they are intended for personal use.

I work very hard to create, edit, and share my patterns, I ask you to please be respectful of my work.

Written by

Atenas

Wife, mom, and maker of things :)