FINALLY!! After weeks (ok, months) of talking about this sweater, I finally finished the pattern and tutorial. This thing sat at the top of my WIP pile for what felt like years because, for one reason or another, any time I went to film, something happened and it kept getting pushed back. But here it is!
Now, ok it’s called The Gentleman’s Sweater, but I totally made it for myself because I love this stitch. That said, you can crochet this for anyone your want, so long as you make adjustments to your measurements. I talk about this more in the PDF pattern, but as a brief overview: use the widest measurement between your shoulders, chest, waist, and hips. When you take the length measurement, measure from your shoulder down towards your hip (on the front side of your body) and account for all the curves and bumps of your lovely figure to ensure a well-fitting garment.
If you’re making this as a gift and just need a sizing chart (and not the whole pattern) you can purchase one below. The Sizing chart includes US sizing ranging from Newborn to Adult. The full PDF pattern for this sweater includes a copy of the sizing chart.
A quick note on yardage, because I get this question often in my patterns, I do not note yardage in written patterns. The reason being, that my patterns are measurement based so you can use whatever yarn weight and hook combination you have available. This will affect the yardage required to complete the pattern. As we are not all one-size-fits-all, and you’ll be using your personal measurements for this garment, there is simply no way for me to calculate yardage for various yarn weight and measurement combinations SO created a tutorial to teach you how to calculate yardage for any project. You can find it on the Mode Bespoke channel on YouTube, or just look below:
What you’ll need:
Yarn: #3 / DK / Lightweight yarn
Hooks: 5.5 mm Tunisian, 3.5 mm regular
Additional items: Measuring tape, yarn needle scissors, stitch markers/safety pins.
I used a cotton yarn for this project, but note that cotton has limited elasticity, so you’ll need to be very precise with your measurements. To create a stretchier fabric, you can use a wool blend, or a cotton or bamboo cotton and a synthetic fiber blend.
Those are all the notes I have for you, so here are the links to the shop where you can find the PDF pattern and the yarn I used to make this sweater:
Yarn: I used approximately 9 skeins of Soft and Comfy yarn to make this adult small-medium top.
Color: Grey
191 yards/50 g (per skein)
Note: You can substitute any yarn of choice for this project. If you choose a different yarn weight, check the label and use the hook size recommended by the yarn maker. To determine how much yarn you’ll need, please watch the tutorial “How Much Yarn” on the Mode Bespoke channel on Youtube.
Construction: You’ll crochet 3 parts that are sewn together to form the top: Vest and 2 Sleeves.
Start with the back park of the vest by crocheting an initial chain that measures your desired garment width. Each row adds to the length of the garment, until you reach the shoulders. At the shoulders, crochet the first set of increases to complete one shoulder/one side of the V neck, then you’ll complete the other side and join them at the chest and crochet the front side of the vest completing the front length of the garment.
The sleeves are crocheted separately beginning with your initial chain, which will measure your arm circumference. Each row adds to the length and you’ll decrease every few rows to reach the cuff. The cuff is added to the sleeve once all decreases have been completed.
The trim along the bottom hemline and the neckline once all pieces are sewn together.
Swatch: Before beginning your garment, make a swatch of the stitch. This stitch compresses, or “shrinks” from the original chain length, so you will need to account for that when creating your panels and sleeves. Chain a length of 4 in / 10 cm in even multiples.. Crochet about 10 -15 rows of the stitch then measure the width of the fabric. The difference between the initial chain and fabric measurement will be your shrink rate, which will need to be added to the shoulder, chest/bust/waist, and arm circumference measurements.
Measurements:
While taking and using your personal measurements is highly encouraged to ensure a better fit, you can find a standard U.S. sizing chart included with this pattern as a separate PDF, which can be found in your order confirmation email.
Shoulder Width: Measure across from the width of your shoulders.
Length: You will need to take two length measurements: front and back length and use the longest of the two measurements as your “garment length”.
- Back length: Measure from the highest point of your shoulder to your hips, or to where you want the bottom of the garment to end.
- Front length: Measure from the highest part of your shoulder to where you want the garment to end, making sure to account for the curves along the front of your body (bust, baby bump, etc if you’re making this for a gal).
Bust/Chest: Measure across the widest part of the chest (around).
Waist: Measure around the waist.
Hip:Measure around the widest part of your hips.
Arm: Measure around the widest part of your arm.
Cuff: Measure around the widest* part of your hand.
* The stitch for this garment does not stretch horizontally, so you will need to measure the widest part of your hand to ensure you can slip it into the finished sleeve.
Sleeve Length: Measure from your shoulder to whenever you want your sleeve to end. If your desired sleeve length goes past your elbow, bend your elbow as seen in the photo in the previous page to take the measurement.
NOTE: Take the measurements around, not across the shoulders, chest, waist, and hips, then divide this measurement in half. Use the widest of the four measurements as the width of your initial chain, (this will be your Garment Width).
Multiples: 4 + 2 for the vest, even numbers for the sleeve
Blocking: This is totally optional, but highly recommended in order to even out any wonky sides on the garment. Blocking before sewing the garment creates a cleaner finish.
| Abbreviations:CH – Chain CO – Cast On RP – Return Pass YP – Yarn Over & Pull Through TS – Tunisian Simple Stitch BLS – Back Loop Simple Stitch |
CO: Insert your hook into the chain space between the vertical stitches, yarn over and pull up a loop. Leave the loop on your hook.
RP: Yarn over and pull through one loop (YP1), then yarn over and pull through 2 loops (YP2) with the remaining loops on your hook until you are left with 1 loop.
YP: Yarn over and pull through whatever number of loops stated after the “P”. Ex: YP3 = yarn over and pull through 3 loops.
TS: Insert your hook behind the top leg of the vertical stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Leave the loop on your hook.
BLS: Insert your hook behind the back leg of the vertical stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Leave the loop on your hook.
Pattern: Vest .
Initial Chain: Chain as many stitches, in multiples of 4+2, as you need in order to complete a chain length equal to your garment width plus your shrink rate.
Foundation: Insert your hook into the second stitch of the chain, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Leave this loop on your hook (you should have two loops on your hook at this point). Insert your hook into the next chain, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat until you have cast on one loop for every stitch of the chain.
Complete a RP.
Row 1: TS into the second vertical stitch, BLS into the third. Repeat alternating between TS and BLS with the remaining vertical stitches of the row. CO into the final stitch.
Complete a RP.
Repeat Row 1 until your fabric measures your garment length.
Shoulder Panel/Side V Neck
Measurement: Measure from your neck to the end of your shoulder, then mark this measurement on your fabric (on both shoulders). Match the number of stitches on both shoulders of your fabric, then mark the center of the “neck” (this last marker is mostly just a visual to indicate where your increases will need to end to create the point of the V neck).
Right Panel (as seen in the photo on the left)
Row 1: Crochet a Row 1 repeat until you reach the first stitch marker (your neck-to-shoulder width). Complete a RP.
Row 2: Repeat Row 1 until you reach the last stitch of the row and increase into the final stitch. Complete a RP.
Increase: using the first leg of the stitch (the one closest to your hook) cast on a TS, then insert your hook into the final stitch and pull up a loop.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until your panel measures approximately ½ of your garment width (it should reach the center neck marker mentioned earlier in the pattern used as a visual marker for the V neck). CH 1 and cut your yarn then move on to the other side.
Left Panel
Row 1: Complete a Row 1 repeat, beginning on the stitch marker at the shoulder mark on the left. Complete a RP.
Row 2: BLS into the second vertical stitch, then TS into that same stitch to increase. Following the stitch sequence of your fabric, complete the row using alternating TS and BLS stitches.
Note: At this point in the pattern, it’s a good idea to try your garment on. Pin the two points of the V neck together, along with the sides under your arm. Make adjustments as necessary before completing the remaining length of the front panel.
Join the panels at the V neck by crocheting the final stitch of the row on the right panel, then crocheting into the first stitch of the left panel and following the stitch sequence on your fabric to complete the rest of the row by crocheting Row 1 repeats (just like you did for the back side of the vest), until you reach your desired garment length. Once you reach your desired length, bind off.
Bind Off: TS into the 2nd vertical stitch of the row, then YP2 to close the stitch as a SC. You should be left with just 1 loop on the hook. Repeat until you complete the row. CO into the final stitch, then CH 1 to make a knot at the end of the row.
Sleeves .
Initial Chain: Chain as many stitches, in even multiples, as you need in order to complete a chain length equal to your arm circumference measurement plus your shrink rate.
Note: Keep track of the number of stitches you chained to use for your second sleeve.
Create a Foundation Row as indicated at the beginning of the Vest pattern.
Rows 1-11: Are all worked as regular rows of the stitch you used for the back and front panels.
Row 12, decrease row: skip the first and last stitch of the row to decrease.
Repeat rows 1-12 until you reach your desired sleeve length.
Note on sizing: Before binding off, measure the width of the cuff and make sure your hand will fit through the sleeve and adjust your sleeve decreases as necessary. Remember to jot down any changes you make to your decrease calculations so you can crochet 2 matching sleeves.
Bind off: Switch to your regular hook.
TS using both legs of the second vertical stitch. Once you have 2 loops on your hook, SLST* so you are left with just 1 loop. Repeat with the remaining stitches of the row, following the stitch sequence of your fabric.
* SLST – pull the top loop on your hook through the bottom one.
Cuff:
Rows 1 & 2: CH 1 and turn your work around. Beginning on the first stitch from your hook, HDC into the back loop of the stitch. Repeat with every stitch of the row.
Row 3: CH 1 and turn your work around. SC into the back loop of the first stitch from your hook. Repeat with every stitch of the row.
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Adjusting Your Sleeve Width
If making adjustments, remember to note any changes to the pattern so you can recreate them for the second sleeve.
Swatch for Decrease Rate: Chain 20 stitches and cast on a foundation row. Crochet 5 rows of TS and BLS alternating stitches (row 1 repeat). For row 6, decrease by skipping the first and the last stitches of the row; place a stitch marker on this row. Crochet 5 more Row 1 repeats, then decrease in the following row.
Measure the width of your swatch across the base of the fabric, as well as across the decrease row. Subtract these numbers to get the “decrease rate”. Repeat with the width of the section above the stitch marker, and across the last row to double-check your decrease rate.
Generally, your decrease rate will be between 0.5 inches to 1 in (between 1.5 to 3 cm), depending on your yarn and hook combination.
Mapping out your decreases:
Subtract your cuff measurement from your arm measurement, then divide your arm length measurement by the difference between the cuff and arm lengths.
Example: Arm measurement 16 in, Cuff 9 in, Sleeve length 15 in.
16 – 9 = 5 in
15 / 5 = 3 in
If my decrease rate is 1”, then I will need to decrease every 3 inches of fabric I crochet for the length of my sleeve. So I will decrease at the 3, 6, and 9 inch marks.
If my decrease rate is 0.5 inches (or anything other than 1 inch) multiply that number by the 3 inches we calculated above so: 3 x 0.5 = 1.5 inches. This means I’ll need to decrease every 1.5 inches of my fabric, so I will decrease at the 1.5, 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, and 9 inch marks.
Sewing .
Fold your sleeve in half (length-wise), and place a stitch marker at the center point. Match this stitch marker to the shoulder marker on your vest, then pin the sleeve to the vest along the sides of the fabric.
Once pinned, fold the garment (as seen in the photo on the right) and make sure all edges of the garment and sleeve line up before sewing the sleeve to the garment.
Sew the sleeve to the vest, then fold the sweater again just like the photo on the right. Sew along the bottom of the sleeve towards the armpit, then down the sides of the sweater until you reach the hem at the hip.
Note: to crochet the hemline like the one in the tutorial, leave the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) open at the base of the sweater.
Repeat with the second sleeve, then weave in your tail ends and you are finished!
Neckline and Hem Trim .
The trim is nearly the same process as Rows 1-3 of the cuff of the sleeve, with a few minor differences.
For the hem, since you have already crocheted a bind off, you’ll only need to crochet Rows 1-3 of the cuff, in the round*, along the bottom of the hem.
*If you are crocheting the hemline so it is pointed at the sides, begin your row of HDC along one of the sides and along either the front or back panel of the sweater. Follow the steps for Rows 1-3 as outlined below, for the neckline to create a point at the sides.
For the neckline, begin at the point of the V:
Row 1: Single Crochet (SC) in every stitch along the front side of the neck and up to the shoulder. You’ll need to bind off along the back neckline of the sweater. To bind off, insert your hook behind both legs of the stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook. Repeat the bind off stitch until you reach the second shoulder, then switch to a SC and complete the rest of the neckline until you reach the V.
Rows 1 & 2: CH 1 and turn your work around. Beginning on the second stitch from your hook, HDC into the back loop of the stitch. Repeat with every stitch of the row.
Row 3: CH 1 and turn your work around. SC into the back loop of the second stitch from your hook. Repeat with every stitch of the row.
Leave a long tail end of yarn to use as thread to sew the edges of the V closed.
Weave in any remaining tails and you are finished! 😀
For questions or comments on this pattern, please contact Atenas at: atenas@modebespoke.com
Disclosures & Copyright
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