Let’s talk about this pattern for just a moment. I get loads of questions about the yarn I used for this hat, so I thought I’d address them here and hopefully get you started with your project 🙂
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Skill Level: Intermediate
The yarn I use in the tutorial and in the pattern is a size #1 fingering yarn. Yes, I know, that is super thin, but please note that I am working two threads simultaneously. So it makes my project thicker, and easier to work with than working with just one thread.
Why don’t I use a thicker yarn? Because I really, really love the feel, weight, sheen and drape of this yarn for this particular pattern. Does that mean you have to use this yarn? No. You can use any yarn you want, in any size you want. You just need to adjust your hook size if you use a medium yarn. Here are some suggested hook size adjustments, but please feel free to try different gauges and use whichever one you like best:
- Size #1 yarn, use 4.25 mm hook
- Size #3 or 3.5 yarn, use a 5 mm hook
- Size #4 yarn, use a 5 mm or 5.5 mm hook
- Size #5 bulky yarn, use 6 mm hook.
Why does your hat look different than mine (if you used a different yarn)? The yarn you use makes a HUGE difference in the final look of your project. If you use, say, Hygge yarn, You’ll have a soft, but fuzzy hat. If you use Caron Simply Soft, you will have a similar look to my hat because both yarns have a similar sheen to them. If you use a cotton yarn, your stitching will stand out more but will have a matte look. See what I mean? Just because we are using the same pattern, doesn’t mean our end results will be the same if we used different yarns.
The last question we’ll cover before moving on to the pattern and materials, has to do with cinching vs. decreasing to close the hat. I cinch the top of the hat in this pattern. There are no decreases for a couple of reasons:
- Try as I might, I was unable to find a good way to decrease without ruining the look of the hat. I’d have to decrease in blocks of two stitches, which would then result in large gaps and ultimately change the look of the stitching. I found that the best way to close the hat and not jeopardize the look of it, was to cinch it closed.
- This pattern, at least the video part, is intended for beginners. I tried to keep it as simple as possible, and I felt that decreasing (especially with what we’d have to do to decrease this pattern), could prove complicated or overwhelming to a beginner.
Watch the full tutorial for this pattern, here. The top one is the beginner version. The bottom one is for intermediate to advanced crocheters.
Your initial chain length is the “Head Circumference” measurement.
Multiples of 2
Crochet a chain, in multiples of two, in the length that will cover the circumference of your head. Please see chart above for
sizing. For example: crochet 88-90 chains for an adult beanies and measure. Your chain should measure between 21-23 inches in length.
Row 1: CH 2. Turn your work around. DC in each stitch of the chain beginning on the 3rd chain from your hook.
Row 2: CH 2. Turn your work around. FPDC in the first post of the chain. BPDC in the second post. Alternate crocheting FPDC and BPDC in every post of the row. When you reach the end of the row, DC in the space between the last post, and the chain at the end of the row.
Row 3: CH 2: Turn your work around. If your first stitch is a FPDC (in the previous row), make a BPDC. If your first stitch is a BPDC (in the previous row), make a FPDC. Crochet the opposite stitch to what you made in the previous row. This will create a woven look. So for every BPDC of the row, you’ll crochet a FPDC in this row, and vice-versa.
Rows 4- on: Repeat row 3 (alternating post stitches) until you reach the desired height for your beanie. Typically, I crochet 7 to 7.5 inches of the alternating posts and then I can make a ribbed brim to finish the beanie at about 9 inches in height.
For the brim:
You can choose to make the brim a different color, or you can continue working in the color on your hook.
Row 1: CH 2. Turn your work around. DC in each stitch.
Row 2: CH 2. Turn your work around. FPDC in the first post (and every even-numbered post of the row). BPDC in the next post (and in every odd-numbered post of the row). Alternate working FPDC and BPDC until you reach the end of the row.
Row 3: You’ll be extending your posts, from the previous row, to create a ribbed look. So crochet a FPDC in each FPDC of the row, and a BPDC in every BPDC.
Repeat Row 3 until you make a brim that’s about 2 inches in height.
Once you’ve completed the brim, weave in all your loose ends so we can sew the hat closed.
Hand-Dyed Team Spirit Yarn by Knit Pal (available in over 40 school colors)56.00$
Lion Brand Coboo Yarn3.99$
Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick Yarn7.99$
Red Heart Soft Baby Steps Yarn5.99$
24/7 Cotton Yarn, by Lion Brand Yarns4.99$
Scarfie Yarn, by Lion Brand7.97$
Red Heart Super Saver (Amazon.com)6.44$
Bernat Blanket Yarn10.99$
Caron Simply Soft3.84$
To sew the beanie:
To sew the sides together: Fold the beanie in half, with the outside of your beanie folded in (so it’ll be inside-out), and sew the edges together on the long side. You can either crochet them together using a SC, or you can use a needle and yarn. Once you reach the top, make a knot your yarn.
To sew the top: On the top (the side opposite the brim), you’ll sew in and out every few stitches all the way around the top of the hat so that when you pull the thread, the beanie will close. Pull the thread tight once you finish sewing and close the top of the hat. Sew back and forth across the closed part of the beanie to reinforce the closure stitches, and knot your yarn.
Weave in any remaining ends, flip your beanie right-side-out, and you are finished. If you chose to add a pom pom, sew your pom onto your beanie.
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