Basket Weave Hat

For those of you who have watched the YouTube tutorial for this hat and have some yarn questions, let me get those answered. Let’s cover the frequently asked questions about this pattern:

The yarn I use in the tutorial and in the pattern is a size #1 fingering yarn. Yes, I know, that is super thin, but please note that I am working two threads simultaneously. So it makes my project thicker, and easier to work with than working with just one thread.

Why don’t I use a thicker yarn? Because I really, really love the feel, weight, sheen and drape of this yarn for this particular pattern. Does that mean you have to use this yarn? No. You can use any yarn you want, in any size you want. You just need to adjust your hook size if you use a medium yarn. Here are some suggested hook size adjustments, but please feel free to try different gauges and use whichever one you like best:

• Size #1 yarn, use 4.25 mm hook
• Size #3 or 3.5 yarn, use a 5 mm hook
• Size #4 yarn, use a 5 mm or 5.5 mm hook
• Size #5 bulky yarn, use 6 mm hook.

Why does your hat look different than mine (if you used a different yarn)? The yarn you use makes a HUGE difference in the final look of your project. If you use, say, Hygge yarn, You’ll have a soft, but fuzzy hat. If you use Caron Simply Soft, you will have a similar look to my hat because both yarns have a similar sheen to them. If you use a cotton yarn, your stitching will stand out more but will have a matte look. See what I mean? Just because we are using the same pattern, doesn’t mean our end results will be the same if we used different yarns.

If you’d like some yarn suggestions, head to the bottom of the post. I’ll also link the shop pages where you can find each yarn.

The last question we’ll cover before moving on to the pattern and materials has to do with cinching vs. decreasing to close the hat. I cinch the top of the hat in this pattern. There are no decreases for a couple of reasons:

1. Try as I might, I was unable to find a good way to decrease without ruining the look of the hat. I’d have to decrease in blocks of two stitches, which would then result in large gaps and ultimately change the look of the stitching. I found that the best way to close the hat and not jeopardize the look of it, was to cinch it closed.
2. This pattern, at least the video part, is intended for beginners. I tried to keep it as simple as possible, and I felt that decreasing (especially with what we’d have to do to decrease this pattern), could prove complicated or overwhelming to a beginner.

Here are the materials you’ll need to complete this pattern:

Yarn: 1 Skein of any yarn of your choice, or several, of you want colored stripes.

Hook: G (4.75 mm) hook

Additional materials: Scissors, & needle (any needle you can fit your yarn through will work).

Optional: Pom

Chain in multiples of 4 + 1, so that you end in an odd number. Make sure that your initial chain measures the same as the circumference of your head, plus an extra 2 inches. This stitch will shrink your initial chain a bit, so make sure you add that extra 2 (or so) inches of chain so that your hat isn’t too small.

This pattern is worked top to bottom (brim).  

Abbreviations CH – Chain     DC – Double Crochet BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet** SLST – Slip Stitch                       FPDC – Front Post Double Crochet*

*Yarn over, then insert your hook behind the post you are working into, yarn over and pull the hook out from behind the post. Yarn over pull through two loops from you hook, yarn over and pull through the two remaining loops on your hook.

**Yarn over, then insert your hook in front of the post you are working into, yarn over and pull the hook out from behind the post. Yarn over pull through two loops from you hook, yarn over and pull through the two remaining loops on your hook.

Your initial chain length is the “Head Circumference” measurement. For a slouchy beanie, use the “Hat Height” measurement, then add an additional 2-3 inch brim.

Row 1: CH 2 and turn your work around, DC into the third stitch from your hook. DC into every stitch of the row.

In order to crochet this pattern in the round, you’ll need to join both ends of your DC chain together. To do this, make sure your work is not twisted and hold both short ends of the chain together. SLST into the first stitch of the chain to join the ends. The bottom part of the DCs will not be attached together, but that is OK, as that will be the  top part of the hat and they will be sewed together when you sew the top of the hat closed.

Row 2:CH 2, turn your work around. FPDC into the 1st and 2nd posts of the row. BPDC into the 3rd and 4th post of the row. FPDC into posts 5 and 6. BPDC into posts 7 and 8. Continue alternating between FPDCs and BPDCs every two posts until you finish the row. To close the round, SLST into the first stitch of the row (the one to the left, if you’re right-handed, of the chain).

Row 3: CH 2, turn your work around. We’ll be inverting the stitches this row, so your FPDC will be worked as a BPDC, and vice-versa. Crochet a BPDC into posts 1 and 2. FPDC into posts 3 and 4. BPDC into posts 5 and 6. FPDC into posts 7 and 8. Continue alternating between FPDCs and BPDCs every two posts until you finish the row. To close the round, SLST into the first stitch of the row (the one to the left, if you’re right-handed, of the chain).

Row 4: CH 2, turn your work around. FPDC into posts 1 and 2. BPDC into posts 3 and 4. FPDC into posts 5 and 6. BPDC into posts 7 and 8. Continue alternating between FPDCs and BPDCs every two posts until you finish the row. To close the round, SLST into the first stitch of the row (the one to the left, if you’re right-handed, of the chain).

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you crochet the height your need for your hat. 

Brim:

Row 1: CH 2. Turn your work around. FPDC in the first post (and every even-numbered post of the row). BPDC in the next post (and in every odd-numbered post of the row). Alternate working FPDC and BPDC until you reach the end of the row. 

Row 2: You’ll be extending your posts, from the previous row, to create a ribbed look. So crochet a FPDC in each FPDC of the row, and a BPDC in every BPDC.

Repeat Row 2 until you make a brim that’s about 2 inches in height.

Once you’ve completed the brim, weave in all your loose ends so you  can sew the hat closed.

To sew the top closed:

Flip your hat inside-out. Cut a length of thread or yarn (6 or so inches would do), and thread your needle with this thread/yarn. On the top (the side opposite the brim),  tie the end of the thread to any stitch and begin to sew in and out every few stitches all the way around the top of the hat so that when you pull the thread, the beanie will close. Pull the thread tight once you finish sewing and close the top of the hat. Sew back and forth across the closed part of the beanie to reinforce the closure stitches, and knot your yarn. Cut any remaining yarn, weave in your ends, and flip your hat right-side out. If you chose to add a pom pom, sew your pom onto your beanie.

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