Celtic Weave Crochet Hat

I receive loads of questions about the yarn I used for this hat pattern. So let’s get those addressed so we can get you crocheting!

The yarn I use in the tutorial and in the pattern is a size #1 fingering yarn. Yes, I know, that is super thin, but please note that I am working two threads simultaneously. So it makes my project thicker, and easier to work with than working with just one thread.

Why don’t I use a thicker yarn? Because I really, really love the feel, weight, sheen and drape of this yarn for this particular pattern. Does that mean you have to use this yarn? No. You can use any yarn you want, in any size you want. You just need to adjust your hook size if you use a medium yarn. Here are some suggested hook size adjustments, but please feel free to try different gauges and use whichever one you like best:

• Size #1 yarn, use 4.25 mm hook
• Size #3 or 3.5 yarn, use a 5 mm hook
• Size #4 yarn, use a 5 mm or 5.5 mm hook
• Size #5 bulky yarn, use 6 mm hook.

Why does your hat look different than mine (if you used a different yarn)? The yarn you use makes a HUGE difference in the final look of your project. If you use, say, Hygge yarn, You’ll have a soft, but fuzzy hat. If you use Caron Simply Soft, you will have a similar look to my hat because both yarns have a similar sheen to them. If you use a cotton yarn, your stitching will stand out more but will have a matte look. See what I mean? Just because we are using the same pattern, doesn’t mean our end results will be the same if we used different yarns.

If you’d like some yarn suggestions, head to the bottom of the post. I’ll also link the shop pages where you can find each yarn.

Another question I frequently receive about this pattern is about whether you can work this pattern in the round. Yes, you can work this in the round, but I do not have a tutorial for this hat worked in the round. The reason being that is it incredibly difficult to show on camera. I created a video for a subscriber about working a Celtic weave in the round, which you can find on the channel, but it is very basic and does not cover color changes. I was trying to make this tutorial as simple as possible, so I chose to crochet a flat block, then sew it closed .

The last question we’ll cover before moving on to the pattern and materials has to do with cinching vs. decreasing to close the hat. I cinch the top of the hat in this pattern. There are no decreases for a couple of reasons:

1. Try as I might, I was unable to find a good way to decrease without ruining the look of the hat. I’d have to decrease in blocks of two stitches, which would then result in large gaps and ultimately change the look of the stitching. I found that the best way to close the hat and not jeopardize the look of it, was to cinch it closed.
2. This pattern, at least the video part, is intended for beginners. I tried to keep it as simple as possible, and I felt that decreasing (especially with what we’d have to do to decrease this pattern), could prove complicated or overwhelming to a beginner.

Yarn: Woolike, by Loops & Threads (available at Michaels,   

          in U.S.) Size 1 fingering yarn, 3.5 oz / 100g, 

          678 yd / 620m

  – 2 skeins* in any color you want. I used Teal as the main color with some accent colors, which I listed below. You can make two, single-color, adult hats with just 2 skeins.

If you want accent colors, like the ones in the picture,  you’ll need: 

         – 2 Skeins Charcoal (optional)

         – 2 Skeins Ivory (optional)

* Note on yarn: You will be crocheting with two skeins simultaneously throughout the pattern. This makes the yarn a little thicker and easier to work with. 

To crochet with two skeins: pull a thread of each skein, line up the ends, and crochet as usual. 

Hook: G, 4.25 mm

Additional materials: Scissors, measuring tape, needle (any needle you can fit your yarn through will work). 

Optional: Pom pom , tag/label

Abbreviations:

CH – Chain                                                   BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet
SC- Single Crochet                                     FPTC – Front Post Triple Crochet
DC – Double Crochet                                 BPTC – Back Post Triple Crochet
FPDC – Front Post Double Crochet

Multiples of 2

Crochet a chain, in multiples of two,  in the length that will cover the circumference of your head. Please see chart above for sizing. For example: crochet 88-90 chains for an adult beanies and measure. Your chain should measure between 21-23 inches in length. 

This stitch shrinks your work, so make sure to make a longer chain than the size you need. For instance, I usually crochet a 22 inch chain (about 88-90 chains) when making an adult beanie. For this particular beanie, I make a 24 inch chain.

This pattern is worked in a 2-row repeat.

Row 1: CH 2, turn your work around. DC in every stitch of the chain.

Row 2: CH 2, turn your work around. FPTC in the first two posts. Skip two posts, and FPTC in the following two posts. Now go back to the two skipped posts: FPTC in each of the skipped posts, crossing over the existing FPTC (the ones to your left of the skipped posts, if you’re right-handed). Skip 2 posts, FPTC in the next two posts. FPTC in the two skipped stitches. Keep crocheting the skip 2, FPTC and FPTC in the skipped two until you reach the end of the row. DC the last stitch (between the last post and the chain).

Row 3: CH 2, turn your work around. BPTC in the first 2 posts. Skip 2 posts. BPTC in the next 2 posts. BPTC in the skipped two posts. Skip 2 posts, BPTC in the next 2 posts, BPTC in the 2 skipped posts. Repeat until you reach the end of the row. DC the last stitch (between the last post and the chain).

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you reach the desired height for your beanie. I usually crochet about 7 to 7.5 inches of this pattern, then I add a two inch brim.

If you want to switch colors (to match the beanie in the picture), I switched to white on row 8, then Charcoal on 9, Ivory on 10, and finished 8 more rows in teal.

For the brim:

You can choose to make the brim a different color, or you can continue working in the color on your hook. 

Row 1: CH 2. Turn your work around. DC in between each post of the Celtic weave. 

Row 2: CH 2. Turn your work around. FPDC in the first post (and every even-numbered post of the row). BPDC in the next post (and in every odd-numbered post of the row). Alternate working FPDC and BPDC until you reach the end of the row. 

Row 3: You’ll be extending your posts, from the previous row, to create a ribbed look. So crochet a FPDC in each FPDC of the row, and a BPDC in every BPDC.

Repeat Row 3 until you make a brim that’s about 2 inches in height.

Once you’ve completed the brim, weave in all your loose ends so you can sew the hat closed. 

To sew the beanie:

To sew the sides together: Fold the beanie in half, with the outside of your beanie folded in (so it’ll be inside-out), and sew the edges together on the long side. You can either crochet them together using a SC, or you can use a  needle and yarn. Once you reach the top, make a knot yout yarn. 

To sew the top: On the top (the side opposite the brim), you’ll sew in and out every few stitches all the way around the top of the hat so that when you pull the thread, the beanie will close. Pull the thread tightly once you finish sewing and close the top of the hat. Sew back and forth across the closed part of the beanie to reinforce the closure stitches, and knot your yarn. 

Weave in any remaining ends, flip your beanie right-side-out, and you are finished. If you chose to add a pom pom, sew your pom onto your beanie. 

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