Welcome back! I’ve got a new scarf pattern for you today! 🙂

This one is a gift for a friend’s wife, so I was going for an elegant, yet warm stitch that would keep her warm in winter (they live in a cold place), so I opted for the Tunisian Puff stitch. This version of the stitch is a little different than what I covered in the Braided Puff Stitch tutorial. I added a row of Tunisian Simple Stitches between the Puff Stitch rows to keep the stitching even, as the Puff Stitch is taller than the Simple Stitch (which results in wavy ends).

Let’s talk yarn and hook! You can use ANY yarn you want. In the tutorial, I use two threads of #1 Fingering yarn (mostly because I LOVE Woolike yarn, so I use it as often as possible), BUT you can make this scarf using you favorite yarn. As for the hook, if you use the doubled-up Fingering yarn, a Sport, or a DK weight yarn, you can use a 5 mm Tunisian hook. For a #4 medium/worsted/aran yarn, use an 8 mm hook.

That’s enough blah, blah for one post, let’s get onto the good stuff!

Please note that this is the free version of the pattern. If you would like the complete, ad-free, photo-filled, abbreviation-defined, note-filled, and love-infused version of this pattern, you can purchase the PDF by by clicking “Add to cart”, below! Each purchase receives an email containing your PDF, as well as a virtual hug from me (because your purchases keep my small business going).

Abbreviations:

CH – Chain                                             RP – Return Pass                                           

TS – Tunisian Simple Stitch                 PFS – Puff Stitch 

Make a slip knot, and CH 26 stitches. 

Foundation Row: Skip the first chain from your hook, and cast on* one loop into each of the next 4 stitches (stitches 2-5 of the chain) . You will end up with 5 loops on your hook. 

*Cast on (CO): Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. 

PFS into the 6th and 7th stitch of the chain.  

CO into stitches 8-12. PFS into stitches 13 and 14. CO into stitches 15-19, PSF into stitches 20 and 21. 

CO into the last 5 chains of the row.

Advertisements

Return Pass: Yarn over and pull through 1 loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. *Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * 2 additional times, so you reach the first pair of PFS. 

At the PFS: yarn over and pull through 7 loops. Then yarn over and pull through the 7 loops that make up the second PFS. 

Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat 4 more times, until you reach the next pair of PFS. 

At the PFS: yarn over and pull through 7 loops. Then yarn over and pull through the 7 loops that make up the second PFS. 

Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat 4 more times, until you reach the next pair of PFS. 

At the PFS: yarn over and pull through 7 loops. Then yarn over and pull through the 7 loops that make up the second PFS. 

Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat until you are left with 1 loop on your hook.

Advertisements

Row 1: TS into the second vertical stitch of the row, and into the next 3 vertical stitches. You should end up with 5 loops on your hook. Place a stitch marker after the last TS. 

PFS into the chain space between the 2 PFS of the previous row.

Place a stitch marker after the 1st PFS, then crochet a 2nd PFS into that same chain space. 

TS into the next 5 vertical stitches. Place a stitch marker after the last TS. 

PFS into the chain space between the 2 PFS of the previous row. Place a stitch marker after the PFS, then crochet a 2nd PFS into the same chain space. 

TS into the next 5 vertical stitches. Place a stitch marker after the last TS. 

PFS into the chain space between the 2 PFS of the previous row. Place a stitch marker after the PFS, then crochet a 2nd PFS into the same chain space.

TS into the next 4 vertical stitches, and CO into the final stitch of the row. 

Complete a Return Pass (follow the instructions on page 3).

Advertisements

Row 2: Beginning on the second vertical stitch of the row, TS into the first 4 stitches. 

CO into the stitch above each of the 2 PFS. 

TS into the next 5 stitches, then CO into each of the PFS stitches. Repeat until you complete the row. 

Complete a RP.


Row 3: Row 3 is a repetition of Row 1, except that the PFS will look a little different. You will still crochet 2 PFS into the chain space between the PFS of the previous row, but it will look like the PFS in the photo below: (photo available in PDF pattern).

Repeat Row 1 and 2 until your scarf length measures approximately 26 inches (66 cm). You will need to end on a repetition of Row 1, before moving on to the Bind Off.

Advertisements

Bind Off                                                                                                                                                                            .

TS into the second vertical stitch of the row. Once you have 2 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through both loops. You should be left with 1 loop on your hook. 

Repeat in every stitch of the row. 

On the PFS: Insert your hook into the stitch above the PFS. 

After completing the last stitch of the row, CH 1 and cut a long tail of yarn. You will use this tail to sew the scarf together, so make sure to leave several inches so that you have enough. 

Weave in any yarn ends (excluding the long tail end you’ll be using to sew), before moving onto the Sewing section.

Advertisements

Sewing                                                                                                                                                                              .
Lay your scarf face-down, and horizontally in front of you.  

Fold the narrow ends so they lay below the scarf, and run parallel to the scarf.

Fold the narrow end, (the end on which you crocheted your initial chain), so that the edge touches the inside edge of the inside of the scarf. 

Sew along the narrow end of the scarf with the long end, along the inside edge of the scarf.  

Once you finish sewing, make sure to weave in any remaining tail ends.

For questions or comments on this pattern, please contact Atenas at: atenas@modebespoke.com

Disclosures & Copyright

The photos and content on this pattern belong to Mode Bespoke, unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved.

If you are selling your work from my patterns, please credit Mode Bespoke for the pattern and provide a link to this pattern on your work. You may not use my written work, photos, or any other content posted on my blog, YouTube, Instagram, or other sites as your own or display them for public use. Please do not distribute purchased patterns, they are intended for personal use.

I work very hard to create, edit, and share my patterns, I ask you to please be respectful of my work.

Written by

Atenas

Wife, mom, and maker of things :)