After weeks of teasing on Instagram the Tunisian Crochet pattern is finally here!
Let me start of by saying that this pattern is not for beginners. Now, I’m not saying you can’t complete it as a beginner, but know that you will need to be familiar with a few Tunisian crochet stitches and techniques before you can complete this project. You will need to know how to crochet a knit stitch, a purl stitch, and an extended return pass. If none of that made any sense, try watching my Tunisian 101 tutorial on YouTube. You’ll learn a few basic stitches in that video, plus a few bits of info about Tunisian crochet. You can also watch the Extended Return Pass tutorial. Once you have a grasp of those three things, you should be prepared to take on this sock pattern.
I’ll make this next part quick so we can get to the pattern. Please note that this is the free version of the pattern. There are no photos, notes, or stitch abbreviation included in this version of the pattern. If you want the photo-packed, note-filled, ad-free PDF version, you can purchase it right here. Plus, you get my undying gratitude for supporting my small business.
This pattern is worked in the round, so you WILL need double-ended hooks. I’ll link the hooks I use, in case you don’t have a set. No, they are not Tunisian double-ended hooks, but yes, these are the ones I used in the tutorial and to crochet several pairs of these socks. The set I use has different-sized hooks on each end, which will actually help you create a stretchier fabric (believe it or not) because it loosens up the stitch tension. These hooks are also shorter than most double-ended hooks, which is awesome for socks! Plus, they are affordable. I could list more detailed reasons, but you’re here for the pattern, not my blah, blah, blah.
SO I’m going to stop typing and leave you with the first of many, soon to come, sock patterns:
Yarn: 2 skeins Woolike yarn, by Loops and Threads
Hook: 3 mm Tunisian Hook, double-sided
If you are using the hooks from the video tutorial, use the hook with 3/0 on one end, and 4/0 on the other.
Additional materials: scissors, measuring tape, and yarn needle. Optional: stitch 1-2 stitch markers, and a stitch counter ring.
|Sizing: Bespoke. This is a measurement-based pattern that you can crochet in any size. Below are the three most-commonly requested sock sizes. You can find a full list of sizes, ranging from newborn to adult, on the Craft Yarn Council’s page. Copy and paste the following link to your browser to access their full measurement chart: https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/foot-size-charts|
RP – Return Pass
ERP – Extended Return Pass
CH – Chain
KS – Knit Stitch
PS – Purl Stitch
Leave a yarn tail of about 3 inches (7 cm) before your slip knot. You’ll use this yarn tail to sew the cuff together further along in the pattern.
CH 3 in whatever color you want the cuff to be. (Ch 3 no matter what size sock you crochet)
Foundation row: Insert your hook into the second chain from your hook, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Leave this loop on your hook. You should have two loops on your hook. Insert your hook into the remaining chain, yarn over and pull up a loop. You should have three loops on your hook.
Complete a RP.
Row 1: KS into the second vertical stitch, then KS into the final stitch (the last stitch of the row).
Complete a RP.
Repeat Row 1 until you complete a length that measures your Foot Circum. measurement. You will need to crochet your rows in multiples of 4. Begin counting your rows as of Row 1, the foundation row does not count towards your total multiple count.
Example: I worked 36 rows to make a sock for a 5-6 year old child. I’ll use this sock example throughout the pattern to help illustrate stitch counts and adjustments.
Once you complete your desired cuff length, remove the hook from the loop and replace it with a stitch marker. Do not cut the yarn.
Using your yarn needle, thread the long tail of yarn you left at the beginning of this section, and use it to sew the narrow ends of the cuff together to create a round.
Sock Length .
Remove the stitch marker, and add the loop to your hook on the 3/0 side.
Foundation Round: Insert your hook into the stitch directly after the loop you added to your hook, then using the second yarn color, yarn over and pull up a loop.
Begin to cast on one loop for every stitch along the edge of the cuff, using your second color of yarn.
To complete the ERP, turn your work around so that you are now working with the back hook (4/0). Slide your stitches on your hook towards the 4/0 side, or “back side” of the hook so you can reach the stitches.
CH 1, then yarn over and pull through two loops. Complete the ERP with the remaining loops on your hook, but leave 2-3 loops on your hook at the end of the ERP.
When you reach the last 2-3 loops, turn your work around so that you are on the cast-on side, slide your loops to the front of the hook, and continue to cast on the remaining stitches of the round.
When you’ve cast on all of your stitches, and have reached the first stitch of the row, turn your work around to complete the ERP. Remember to leave 2-3 loops on your hook.
Place a stitch marker on the stitch right before the first stitch of the Foundation Round (it’ll look a little like a chain 2)
Round 1: KS, KS, PS, PS.
Repeat the sequence until you complete the round. Cast on only as many stitches as you are comfortable adding to your hook, then turn your work around, slide the stitches to the back of the hook, and complete an ERP.
Repeat the round until you complete your desired sock height.
Once you complete the sock height, complete a full ERP, leaving just one loop on your hook. Do not cut your yarn.
For this section of the pattern, you will work with only 1 thread, (the one attached to the loop on your hook). You should no longer have any loops in color 2 on your hook, just a thread attached to the last stitch. Don’t cut color 2, just leave it attached to your work, as you’ll be using it again in a few rows.
This section is worked as a flat fabric, and not in the round. You will use only KS stitches for the heel.
You will need to cast on only half of the stitches of the round to complete the heel. Take the number of rows you crocheted as the cuff multiple, and divide it by 2.
Let’s use the child’s sock as an example. I crocheted 36 rows for the cuff.
36 / 2 = 18
To complete the heel on the child’s sock, I will need to cast on 18 KS stitches
Row 1: KS however many stitches you need for your sock size heel. (I would need KS 18 stitches for the child’s sock.)
Once you’ve cast on your stitches, count the loops on your hook. You will have one additional loop, since there was already one loop on your hook when we began the row. (My hook would have 19 loops: 18 + 1 = 19)
Complete an ERP.
Row 2: KS 2 together, KS into each of the vertical stitches of the row until you reach the last two. KS 2 together. Cast on into the final stitch of the row.
Complete an ERP.
Let’s take a quick moment to math here. We will need to complete several repetitions of Row 1 and 2, but to determine how many rows we’ll need, we need to do some quick division.
Take the number of stitches your cast on for your heel and divide by 2. For me that was:
18 / 2 = 9
I will need to crochet 9 rows to complete the Heel Decreases part of the pattern.
Determine how many rows you need to complete for this section, and repeat Row 1 and 2 until you reach your calculated row number.
Now add 2 additional rows. Count your loops on the last row, you should have half of the loops you started the first row with. (So I would have crocheted 11 rows total, and have 9 loops on my hook.)
To complete the heel, you’ll need to add some rows of increases. Since we’ve already calculated the number of rows you needed to complete in the decreases section, you will use that same number for this section. (Use your halved number. I would crochet 9 rows.)
Row 1: Insert your hook into the chain space between the first and second vertical stitches. Yarn over and cast on one loop. KS into each of the vertical stitches of the row. After your crochet into the last vertical stitch, insert your hook into the chain space between the last vertical stitch and the final stitch of the row. Yarn over and cast on one loop.
Cast on into the final stitch of the row.
Complete an ERP.
Row 2: KS into every stitch of the row.
Complete an ERP.
Repeat Row 1 and 2 until you complete your calculated number of rows. Count the loops on your hook and make sure that number matches the number of stitches you originally cast on for the heel.
(I would need to crochet 9 rows to cast on 18 loops on my hook. Add the one loop already on the hook, and I would end up with 19 loops on my hook).
Once you complete your last ERP, place a stitch marker on the loop on your hook, and remove the hook.
Take the thread of yarn you cut at the very beginning of the pattern (mentioned in the Pattern Notes), and thread it though your yarn needle.
Line up the corners of the heel together, folding the “hourglass” shape in half, and begin to sew along the edges of the fabric. You can see how to do this in the tutorial.
Make sure to weave in any yarn tails before moving onto the next section.
Remove the stitch marker on the heel, and pull the loop onto your hook on the 3/0 side. Pick up the color 2 thread, to begin Round 1.
Round 1: In color 2, KS into every stitch of the heel. Make sure you cast on the same number of stitches you cast on for the heel. (I would have to cast on 18 KS) Complete an ERP to make room for the remaining stitches of the round.
When you reach the end of the heel, begin to cast on into the top stitches of the sock. Use KS stitches only, you will no longer crochet any more PS for the remaining sections of this pattern.
On the top side of the sock, cast on the same number of stitches as you did for the heel.
Once you have cast on all of the stitches of the round, place a stitch marker near the very first stitch of the round to help you keep track of where the round begins.
Complete rounds of KS until you are 1.5 in (3.8 cm) from reaching the Total Foot Length for your desired sock size.
Keep track of how many rounds you complete, so you can use this number for your second sock.
The toe section of the pattern is similar to the heel. You will work with just one thread, but this time, you can cut the thread you are no longer using (and weave it in). You will also cast on the same number of stitches you cast on for the first row of the heel, and you will work the same number of rows as you did in the Heel Decreases section of the pattern.
Row 1: Cast on the same number of stitches as you did for row 1 of the heel. (I would have to cast on 18, and would end up with 19 loops on my hook).
Complete an ERP.
Row 2: KS 2 tog., KS into the remaining vertical stitches of the row, until you reach the last two. KS 2 tog., then cast on into the final stitch of the row.
Complete an ERP.
Repeat Row 1 and 2 until you complete your calculated row count for our desired sock size. (I would need to crochet 9 rows).
Crochet 2 additional rows.
When you complete the last stitch of the final ERP, cut your yarn and weave in the tail end.
Complete a second toe flap on the top side of the sock. Before you begin: Leave about a 5 inch (11 cm ) tail of yarn before your first cast on. You’ll use this thread to sew the two flaps together to close the toe.
Weave in any remaining tail ends, leaving just the long thread you left to sew the toe flaps together.
Line up the edges of the top flap and sew across the side, top, and remaining side of the toe. You can see how to do this in the video tutorial.
Weave in your last tail end, and you are finished! Repeat the pattern from the beginning to complete a second sock.
Personal Note: Because there are no specific stitch counts required to complete the pattern (other than the multiple of 4), you can try using different hook sizes and yarn weights to make light summer socks, or thick winter socks. Just remember to use the measurement chart, or take your own measurements, to make socks that fit you.
Don’t forget to share your photos! If you are on Instagram, tag me: @mode.bespoke. I would love to see your photos! You are also always welcome to email me photos. 🙂
For questions or comments on this pattern, please contact Atenas at: email@example.com
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